January 17, 2010
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged alteration, dressmaking, issue 4, sew magazine, sewing, sewing magazine, sewing pattern, sizing problem, skirt
I’ve just consigned my latest project to the bin!

I decided to make the high-waisted straight skirt from the free pattern in issue 4 of “Sew” magazine. I checked the size guide in the magazine and decided to make the 14 as it gave the size to be 28″ waist and 38.75″ hips. A little snug for me but figured I could let it out a little.
To cut a long story short, after stitching the back to the front I tried it on for fit. It was WAY too big! I did try taking in the side seams but I had to alter them so much the shape of the skirt didn’t look right. In frustration I unpicked the zip and threw the rest of it in the bin.
So, is it the pattern or is it me? Normally I would measure the pattern pieces before cutting out because from experience I know that the envelope back isn’t always accurate. Annoyingly, I couldn’t this time as the pattern didn’t show any waist or hip placement markings and the pattern didn’t mention how high on the waist the skirt was meant to sit.
I will attempt this skirt again and just cut it to a smaller size, but if anyone has any tips on how to measure a pattern without the markings I would be really greatful. Sew magazine gives fab free patterns with every issue but it looks as though they all have this same little problem.
January 3, 2010
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged adjustments, dressform, dressmaker's dummy, dressmaking, Lady Valet, sewing
Bless her – the poor girl will be getting a complex.
Doris (my brand new Lady Valet dressform) is fab. I love her to bits. But her boobs just aren’t big enough. When she arrived this week I measured myself and faithfully dialled those measurements onto Doris. I proudly showed her off to hubby and said “look – she’s the same shape as me now”.
“Actually, she’s not” he said “you’re not that shape at all”. Well, I suppose he would know.
I measured myself again and checked against Doris’s dials. Everything seemed to be correct so what was the problem?
Then I realised – I’m an E cup and poor old Doris is about a B. The measurements were right but the curves weren’t. What to do?
Do what any self-respecting girl does - get a padded bra!

By the way – that rotten velvet bodice has been reconciled to the carrier bag. I genuinely don’t think I’ll ever be able to sew with velvet again.
December 31, 2009
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged design alterations, dressmaking, pattern, sewing, sewing pattern, simplicity 3529
So here goes the story ………..
My friend Sheena had a bit of a fashion dilemma. Hubby had a new job and they were due to attend his work’s Christmas party. She wanted to look good in front of his colleagues but couldn’t find a thing to wear.
One morning she plonked a catalogue down on my desk and pointed to this dress …


“What do you think?” she asked.
“The dress is quite nice” I replied “but I don’t think it’s your colour”.
“I’m not keen on the colour myself” she said “and I don’t really like the hem either, but it’s the only dress I’ve seen that’s anywhere near what I’m looking for”. I spotted the price. They want £89 for it???
So I said it.
“I’ll make one for you” I told her “it’ll be the colour you want, the hemline you want and it’ll cost you a fraction of that one”. I showed her Simplicity pattern 3529 and she loved it.
“The thing is” Sheena said “I’d really like it to be backless like the one in the catalogue, to show off my tattoo”. Hmm, now this pattern doesn’t have a backless version so I was going to have to work out how best to do it. This would be the biggest design alteration I’d made so I’d really set myself up for a challenge. But with a bit of help from my tutor Babs I managed it.
I created a toile first to sort out any “kinks” in my alterations (another first – I’ve never made a toile before). Sheena and I also decided not to have a tie-back dress as the ties would just obscure her tattoo, defeating the point of having a backless dress.
December 30, 2009
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged dressform, dressmaker's dummy, dressmaking, Jaycotts, Lady Valet, sewing, velvet
I’m so excited! My latest sewing acquisition arrived today! My very own Lady Valet dressform.
I’ve hummed and ha-ad about getting one for ages but kept telling myself it was an extravagance I really didn’t need. How wrong was I?? I’ve been making a Christmas dress for a friend and have been using a dressform in evening class to work on it (post still to come). I was sold!
So, I pooled my Christmas money (thank you family) and ordered one from Jaycotts on Christmas Eve. Doris arrived this afternoon.

She’s already wearing a half-finished velvet top that’s been sitting in a carrier bag for about two years – maybe I’ll get it finished now.
I’ll keep you posted on how Doris and I get on.
December 30, 2009
· Filed under Musings · Tagged christmas, easter eggs, tesco
…. which is unusual for me.
I popped into Tesco this afternoon for some post-Christmas pre-New Year milk, bread etc and discovered that the Christmas goods have been pushed right to the end of their aisle and replaced with ……….
EASTER EGGS!!!!

Has the world gone mad????
Quite possibly.
November 28, 2009
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged dressmaking, fabric, sewing, skirt, velvet, velvet skirt
At long last! It’s been draped over the banister for months. I swear I’m never going to sew with velvet again!!! It shifts about, it’s virtually impossible to hem invisibly and its just plain evil!!
Looks nice though

October 31, 2009
· Filed under How to ..... · Tagged fancy dress, halloween, how to make a tutu, sewing, tulle, tutu
It’s that time of year again – trick or treating, fancy dress parties. Well, the kids anyway – I just get to stay in and make the costumes!
This year Chloe wanted to go to her friend’s party as a “BadFairy” and insisted that bad fairies wear purple and black tutus. After looking at a few not very inspiring tutus in town I decided I’d have a go at making one myself.
So, armed with a couple of metres of tulle and a bit of elastic and a very vague idea of what I’m doing, here goes ……..
HOW TO MAKE AN 8 LAYER TUTU
1. Materials
1m each of purple and black tulle (medium weight)
1m of black elastic (approx 5cm wide)

2. Take your first piece of tulle and fold in half along it’s longest edge, then fold in half again. Pin. Remember, your tulle should be roughly 1.5 times the length of your elastic to allow for sufficient “ruffle”.

Then cut along top and bottom folds. Do the same with your next piece of tulle.
3. Now to create your layers – I decided to have alternate black and purple layers. Separate the tulle and carefully lay each layer one on top of the other, ensuring the top edge of each layer matches the one below. This can be quite fiddly as the tulle can slip so you may find it helpful to use plenty of pins as you go along. If you are using only one colour tulle this step will be a lot easier as your tulle will already be pinned and ready to stitch following the cutting stage.

4. Next you need to sew your layers together. I decided to use my overlocker (serger) for neatness although you could just as easily use a straight stitch on your sewing machine. Because I used my overlocker I tacked the layers together first (don’t overlock with pins in your fabric – it gets very nasty when your cutting blade hits one!).

Don’t worry about creating ruffles at this stage – this is done when adding the elastic.

5. Pin the tulle layers evenly across the lower edge of the elastic (about 1cm from the lower edge) leaving approx 3cm overlap at one end. I added an overlap to make sure the skirt didn’t gape open when worn.

6. I always find this the scary bit! Using a medium length stitch sew the tulle on to the elastic. Because there is a lot more tulle than elastic you will need to stretch the elastic as you sew. To help avoid snapped needles sew at a medium speed and stretch the elastic either side of the needle. If you only stretch it at one end you will put too much pressure on the needle. It’s this stretching process that creates the ruffled look.

7. Finally, I pinned the tutu around Chloe’s waist and then stitched to secure. I used a zigzag stitch to allow for “give”.
And here’s the finished result – I was really pleased that it was full enough to be able to stand up on it’s own.

Chloe was thrilled as you can see from the pic

I was pleased with my first attempt but would welcome any tips for the next time I make a tutu.
August 31, 2009
· Filed under Musings · Tagged cwtch, Sew Hip, sew magazine, sewing, sewing magazine, sewing table, Sewing World
Cwtch [pronounced cootch]. (adj) (v) Welsh.
I like the word cwtch. It’s a nice word. A warm and fuzzy word. It’s also a word with more than one meaning.
Now my favourite definition of the word is the verb (to cwtch). It means to hug; to cuddle; to comfort. If one of my children fell over when they were little they would want a cwtch from Mammy to make them better. If I’m feeling chilly in the evening, there’s no better way to get warm than a cwtch from my hubby. See? Nice word. Use it lots.
The other definition of cwtch is the one I want to tell you about today. It’s also a nice word. It describes a small, cosy space. Most Welsh houses have a “cwtch dan stâr” (the little space under the staircase); or if your puppy has been naughty you may tell him to “cer cwtch!” (go to your basket!).
I have my own cwtch where I sew. My cwtch is at the top of the stairs outside my bedroom door. It’s where the landing turns to make a [very little] “L” shape. My sewing table just about squeezes into my cwtch.
On top of my table I have my sewing machine; my overlocker; my lamp; my ham & sleeve roll; my magazine holders full of “Sewing World”, “Sew Hip” & “Sew” magazines; my quilting extension table and the thing that catches all the bits from my overlocker.
Underneath the table I have a little chest of drawers full of all my bits & bobs and sewing paraphenalia; my plastic boxes and bags of fabric; my bin and my chair.


(note: the bannister is quite useful to hold “work in progress”)
Ok, not a very organised or practical cwtch (to sew, everything has to be moved and dumped on my bed) but it’s mine. It’s warm and cosy and quiet and I rarely get disturbed. It’s where all my creations are – well – created! It’s where all my disasters happen. It would be nice to have a bigger cwtch – perhaps enough space so I don’t need to hire a removal van every time I want to stich a hem – but then it wouldn’t be a cwtch……… would it?
August 18, 2009
· Filed under dressmaking · Tagged dressmaking, fabric, lee mill, M5696, McCall's M5696, pattern, school skirt, sewing, sewing pattern, skirt, swansea, Wales
….. and Chloe’s not too thrilled about the prospect. To try and soften the blow I’ve offered to make her school skirts this year. The skirts we usually buy are never “right” – usually too long or scratchy material etc etc.
We’ve agreed on a pattern (McCall’s M5696 – View A) which I’ve made for her before (pic pending), it fits and she likes. 
We nipped into town this morning and picked up 1.5m of black polyester from Lee Mill which should be enough for two skirts. They’re really easy to make and can probably finish one in an afternoon. I may start one this afternoon or we may go to the Marquis for our tea instead (the boys are going to watch football so perhaps a girly afternoon is in order). I’ve got two weeks before she goes back to school so plenty of time. In the meantime I have floors to mop and an Everest-size pile of ironing calling my name ……